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some brake issues.....

PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 12:56 am
by Classiccarsrule85
Well i could of sworn i posted something about this before but i cannot find the thread at all....anyhow so here is what im running and the problems thusfar

I recently upgrade my 95 cx with gsr front disc, integra ls booster w/rs master cyl...and of coarse a ls rear disc swap

Now the problems
So i sold my skunk 2 because i thought my car kept overheating due to it losing coolant and such. and that the temp guage wasnt working properly....well when it would heat up and just get above said line on the coolant temp guage. The brakes would start to lock right up and if i drove it for a bit longer the brakes would completely lock up and you wouldnt be able to drive the car till you let her cool down a bit. Well today I started driving her around abit. illegally of coarse but had to make sure of some things that i did so it would pass inspection. well wouldnt you know it the engine didnt overheat with the stock intake on it but the brakes still locked up on me ......Should i rebleed the brakes or something??

Also i wasnt able to tell because i couldnt move the rear wheel at all by hand but there is a definately clunking sound in teh passenger side rear. hopeing its not a wheel bearing shouldnt be because i checked everything before i installed it and the trailing arms and such where fine. plus my control arm bushings are fine and i have energy suspension trailing arm bishings so i know its not that the only other thing i can think of it being is I was unable to find a upper control arm for the rear swap so i used the drivers side off my old setup it bolted up fine but that the only other thing i can really think of it being and it just seems too sudden if you know what i mean there was no warning for this noise. And thats why I am at a loss........

Anyhelp is greatly appreciated
Thank you

PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:25 am
by Ajax1989
1st try rebleeding the brakes

and make sure you use DOT3
check the seals behind the pistons on the calipers

make sure you got a prop vavle and make sure its in good condition

also check and make sure you ebrake cable on the rear pistions are not to tight

how does the pedal feel??

PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:04 pm
by Classiccarsrule85
I used vavoline DOT3/4 synthetic and yea i have a prop valve from a integra rs.....

The brake pedal seems solid and not spungy but a good friend who worked on cars alot says i still got air in the lines so im gonna rebuildem

PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 3:40 pm
by Classiccarsrule85
ok most likely found the culprate of my wheel shake looks like the lugs for my rear tires where loose every single one except for the key so im thinking someone may have tried to steal my Si rims that are on teh back.....either that or they loosened themselves up from teh inspection that i had maybe they forgot to tighten them....

PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 4:14 pm
by dawg316
are you running stock lug nuts on the rear ? because aftermarket ones are known to fail on oem wheels

PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 5:10 pm
by Classiccarsrule85
yea i have 3 oem lugs per side and 1 key that is aftermarket....so yea im at a loss but thankfully i caught it before something bad happened....

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 4:58 pm
by Classiccarsrule85
ok so an update so to speak....

The knock definately was loose lugs torqued them back down and all was good.....

However brake problem still persists well.....

Me and my girl took the car for a ride to check everything make sure it will pass and stuff like that well lets just say when the car heated up the brakes started locking up so.....I told her to pump while i bleed them and low n behold after i did that everything and i mean everything was working perfectly nothing was bad going bad etc....drove the thing for an hour or two car really didnt heat up but still everything was working and even the pedal felt like it used to......

Well I parked it we went inside and a couple hour later i drove her home got her home and started my way back this wasnt even a 10minute trip and the brakes started to lock up again so i pull over and wait till it cools down a bit but this time it still wouldnt budge a inch so i said screw it took a 10mm to the back passenger caliper and turned the bleed screw well low n behold the car moved fine......today im looking at all my connections etc And now im thinking its my master cyl. which sucks because i did so much work for it to have it be a bad one........

The reason im thinking its the master cyl is you can see that there is a wee bit o fluid draining down it and the paint is peeling off of it so yea im thinking its that....but imma wait till my buddy looks closer before i bitch and have to throw my old cx setup back on it or possibly go to the junkyard tomarrow and see about grabbing eitehr another master cyl or booster setup from another civic or somethign....

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 7:38 pm
by dawg316
if the master is leaking always replace it. have you had a chance to take off your callipers or dums ( dont no if your running 4 way disk) if your running disk. take the calliper off the rotor and try pushing back the cylinder.i use a c-clamp. if its very tough to push back then your calliper is seized. if your running rear drums. take the drum off and tap the shoes left and right with a little bit of force to make shure the wheel cylinder hasnt locked up on you.

I would start with the master cylinder first. re bleed the system and see what happens next

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 9:33 pm
by Classiccarsrule85
yea it is where imma gonna start hopefully it dosent take me long to do this swap hopefully reverting back to my known good master cyl is gonna be good.....but i gotta do all the work with the changeing it back to a civic style booster instead of my integra one.......ohhh the joys of building a veihicle....lol

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 10:39 pm
by Ajax1989
if you see a lil bit of fuild on the booster and the paint is pillin that means you deff need a new master cyl

that means that your secondary seal on the primary pistion is bad
so you gotta replace the master cyl.

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 11:33 pm
by Classiccarsrule85
yea changed her out now gonna just wait and get someone to help me bleed the brakes lol of coarse when i ned help no ones around but yea once i do that ill take her for a quick drive and see if that fixes my problems.....

PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 3:09 am
by dawg316
hope it works. rember to be safe also. scares me half to death dirving with shitty breaks let alone breaks that lock

PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:43 am
by Classiccarsrule85
well they slowly lock up so its not like a all of a sudden thing so thats a good thing lol.....

but blead them with my old master cyl on and just got done with a decent trip pedal just feels a bit spungyish so im gonna see if i cant rebleed them tomarrow but they stop its just completely different feel now lol.....went from 15/16ths to a 13/15ths so yea everything works ok now

But quick question when i have my car on i can make the rpms go up to about 2k maybe more by pumping the pedal i know im creating a vaccum but is it normal?

PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:40 am
by Ajax1989
its normal but i dont know if 2000 is normal

PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:59 pm
by dawg316
2000 seems normal. well for me atleast on my moms CR-V ( hers has a tach and my eg dosn't :( ) what speed are you idleing at ?