completly stuck! help help help!

Technical Topics specific to the Hatchback body - NOT where you post pics/build specs of your car.
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completly stuck! help help help!

By EG41213929
- Fri Mar 21, 2014 6:48 pm #343627 Hi everyone, i am brand new to this forum so hi to everyone, the problem i face probably isnt a big one to ye but i cant figure it out! :? So i have an 1994 eg civic that has been in the shed for the past 9 years or so, it has a d15b vtec engine in it that the timing belt was snapped on so rather than rebuild that engine i just got a new one, only problem being that a wire tuck had been done on this car so i decided to strip out the current looms and start again. So i got another d15b engine and looms but i got it from an ek coupe i got everything i thought i would need. I put the eg loom next to the ek loom and there is loads of extra plugs so my queation is if i put the ek looms into the eg will it work and what will be the story with the dashboard?
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By brandoff88
- Fri Mar 21, 2014 7:07 pm #343629 what happened is you grabbed an obd2 harness (96-00) instead of the obd 1 (92-95) harness you would have needed...what I would do is depin the plugs, and remove all the unnecessary plugs and wires. cheapest way of course...but if you don't feel confident maybe have someone help you...we also have a list of harness plugs and what they go to and wire colors etc. just my two cents
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By brandoff88
- Fri Mar 21, 2014 7:09 pm #343630 this is generally what you should need for your wiring set up.

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=12066
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By teal_dx
- Sat Mar 22, 2014 2:14 am #343634 Yeah I'd start with the obd1 harness. The obd2 has different alternator, distributor, injector, firewall plugs and a bunch of extra stuff. It would be a huge pita to use an obd2 harness on an obd1 car.

By EG41213929
- Sat Mar 22, 2014 2:14 pm #343641 Well what if i just put the looms in and get the engine goin then worry about the dashboard things after??? Whoever did the wire tuck moved the battery to the boot and the engine fuseboard into the dash so i dunno what way its been wired, and for some strange reason the ecu isnt in the passenger footwell anymore its in the enginebay in a perspex case lit up by purple neons..... is hondata a good ecu? I thought the ecu for d15b's was a p08..... confused.com!
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By teal_dx
- Sat Mar 22, 2014 2:48 pm #343642 It sounds like a headache to begin with. It will still be 100x easier if you start with an obd1 harness. What's wrong with keeping the custom harness that was already in the car?

By EG41213929
- Sat Mar 22, 2014 3:17 pm #343644 Well surely i cant use the harness thats in it because there is extra sensors on the ek engine and from what i read there is extra things like knock sensors and things? Do ya think the original loom will work?!?
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By teal_dx
- Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:06 pm #343645 Oh, you didn't tell us you had an OBD2 motor. When you said JDM D15B, I assumed it was the OBD1 version because that's the easier way to go in an OBD1 car. Why don't you tell us everything about the car so we can help you figure out what will be the best/easiest/least expensive route to go. :thumb:

By EG41213929
- Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:35 pm #343646 [quote="teal_dx"]Oh, you didn't tell us you had an OBD2 motor. When you said JDM D15B, I assumed it was the OBD1 version because that's the easier way to go in an OBD1 car. Why don't you tell us everything about the car so we can help you figure out what will be the best/easiest/least expensive route to go. :thumb:[/quote


Oh right sorry about that! Alright the car was my brothers and it has been in the shed for about 9 years, it has a jdm d15b engine in it with obd1 loom but as i said the car had a wire tuck done on it and the timing belt snapped so rather than rebuild it i just bought a 1997 ek coupe for 800 quid as a doner car, now the eg has the obd1 loom but the ek has the obd2 loom so thier is extra plugs and things.... if i was to leave the obd1 loom in and try to get the engine runnin with that loom would it matter about those other plugs or how would it work? If i could easily fit an ek dash in then it woulf be ok but it doesnt fit! Ahhhh its annoyin! ]
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By teal_dx
- Sun Mar 23, 2014 12:04 am #343649 Ok that helps a lot :thumb:
You have an OBD1 car, obd1 edu, obd1 harness and obd2 motor. Instead of converting everything to obd2, just convert the motor to OBD1. We still don't know what motor was in your car before... but Here's what i would do...

Put your OBD1 distributor onto the OBD2 motor. (not sure which motor the hatch had originally, it may not fit) OBD1 distributors have the crank position sensor built in. OBD2 motors have the crank position sensor behind the lower timing cover. So by using the OBD1 dizzy, you won't have to extend wiring to get to the obd2 crank sensor. Just leave the obd2 crank sensor alone, unplugged on your motor.

OBD2 motors came with secondary o2 sensor after the cat. OBD1 did not, so don't worry about that.

OBD2 blocks have knock sensors, OBD1 do not. So the OBD1 ecu is not going to look for one so just leave it unplugged on the block and forget about it.

The OBD1 injector clips may not fit the OBD2 injectors (or maybe it is OBD2 clips that don't fit OBD1 injectors) Either way, try it and if they don't fit then install your obd1 injectors into the obd2 intake manifold.

The IAT sensor on the obd2 motor is located on the intake tube, right before the throttle body. On OBD1 motor, it's on the lower back of the cyl 2 intake runner. Easiest thing to do is to extend the wiring to reach the obd2 IAT sensor. Another option is to replace the intake manifold on the obd2 motor with the OBD1 intake manifold. (do it while it is out of the car - much easier)
This way you'll have everything on the intake manifold converted to OBD1 in one shot.

Same with the alternator - put obd1 on the obd2 motor. That way you won't have to cut the square plug from your OBD2 harness and solder it to your OBD1 harness to fit the obd2 alternator.

By EG41213929
- Sun Mar 23, 2014 12:44 am #343651
teal_dx wrote:Ok that helps a lot :thumb:
You have an OBD1 car, obd1 edu, obd1 harness and obd2 motor. Instead of converting everything to obd2, just convert the motor to OBD1. We still don't know what motor was in your car before... but Here's what i would do...

Put your OBD1 distributor onto the OBD2 motor. (not sure which motor the hatch had originally, it may not fit) OBD1 distributors have the crank position sensor built in. OBD2 motors have the crank position sensor behind the lower timing cover. So by using the OBD1 dizzy, you won't have to extend wiring to get to the obd2 crank sensor. Just leave the obd2 crank sensor alone, unplugged on your motor.

OBD2 motors came with secondary o2 sensor after the cat. OBD1 did not, so don't worry about that.

OBD2 blocks have knock sensors, OBD1 do not. So the OBD1 ecu is not going to look for one so just leave it unplugged on the block and forget about it.

The OBD1 injector clips may not fit the OBD2 injectors (or maybe it is OBD2 clips that don't fit OBD1 injectors) Either way, try it and if they don't fit then install your obd1 injectors into the obd2 intake manifold.

The IAT sensor on the obd2 motor is located on the intake tube, right before the throttle body. On OBD1 motor, it's on the lower back of the cyl 2 intake runner. Easiest thing to do is to extend the wiring to reach the obd2 IAT sensor. Another option is to replace the intake manifold on the obd2 motor with the OBD1 intake manifold. (do it while it is out of the car - much easier)
This way you'll have everything on the intake manifold converted to OBD1 in one shot.

Same with the alternator - put obd1 on the obd2 motor. That way you won't have to cut the square plug from your OBD2 harness and solder it to your OBD1 harness to fit the obd2 alternator.



Holy shit your one smart guy, thanks for that! Yeah it was an obd1 motor and loom so everything you said i can do. Thanksalot for that! Not sure what else to say to say thanks so cheers you ledgend!
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By teal_dx
- Sun Mar 23, 2014 4:28 am #343655 Haha thanks, d series is my specialty cause it's all I ever work on. So what d d-series is in your hatch right now? I ask because certain d series distributors only fit certain heads. Here's some details on that cause I don't wanna type it all on a phone... http://www.civicwagon.com/archive/index.php/t-8254.html

By EG41213929
- Sun Mar 23, 2014 11:13 am #343657 [quote="teal_dx"]Haha thanks, d series is my specialty cause it's all I ever work on. So what d d-series is in your hatch right now? I ask because certain d series distributors only fit certain heads. Here's some details on that cause I don't wanna type it all on a phone... http://www.civicwagon.com/archive/index.php/t-8254.html[/quote


Hows things, no no i took the engine out already and sprayed the engine bay thistle purple and all the little things chrome it looks good. Ah the dizzy thats on that old engine has two plugs on it one with seven pins active and the other with only two, the number d1379 is stamped onto the side thats bolted to the engine. I have both engines out of both cars and both looms out too i replaced the timing belt water pump and tensioner thing too, then i took off the box and replaced the release bearing and clutch, not sure what else to say! Sick of driving big litre evo so thats why i want this little civic finishe and finished quick ]:-P
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By suspendedHatch
- Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:16 pm #343690 Is your OBD2 harness a one piece or two piece? I'm pretty sure all D Series OBD2 engine harnesses are the one piece which makes it much more difficult to use.

*Ah, I see teal recommended converting to OBD1. The only thing he forgot is that you'll want to get the shorter throttle body cable from the EK if you're using the OBD2 intake manifold.
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