- Thu Aug 16, 2007 6:48 pm
#20136
Donno if this has been posted, i didnt see it... just figured some peeps might not have seen this before and its pretty cool.........
The remote door locking kit came from JC Whitney. It's designed for cars that don't have power locks. Came with 2 actuators, 2 remotes, the "brain" and all the hardware you need. Cost was $69.95.
The steel rod is available at any hardware story. Just drill a small hole in the end to connect the actuator to the rod.
The threaded tube from the "Lamp" section of the hardware store. Just find the right ID to be able to slide the steel rod into it. I found the large nuts in the same parts bin, there's one on the inside of the door and one on the outside (visible in photo). Be sure to threadlock these.
1) remove the inside door panel and carefully pull back the plastic.
2) Drill a hole in the door, the proper size for the thread tube. Install the tube and nuts.
2) After cutting steel rod to the proper length, I just dabbed a little paint on the end of it, closed the door, and fed it into the steel tube (from inside the door) until it touched the door frame. The paint on the end showed me where to drill on the door frame.
3) Install actuator and connect it to the steel rod. The kit came with some rods about the diameter of a coat hanger to make the connection. The tough part was just lining everything up correctly. Mae sure you test it before you button it all up and make sure that the rod slides smoothly in both directions and that it doesn't catch on the door frame.
4) As for the "emergency release", I just used a piece of picture hanging wire and connected it to the steel rod where it meets the actuator. From there, I routed it through the door to a place that's hidden, but accessible if necessary. Now if the battery dies or the actuator fails, just pull the wire and the deadbolt opens. It'll be up to you to decide where to route it to.
Here is the deadbolt unlocked:
Here is the deadbolt locked:
Here is the hole in the door frame that the deadbolt slides into when the door is closed:
The one thing I won't reveal here is my "emergency" method for getting in. If the battery went dead or the actuator failed, I needed a way to still slide the bold out of the door frame. You guys can develop your own methods, just think "wire". Think "fuel door release" for inspiration.
It's simple, but it's a good, effective system to prevent break ins. Total costs, maybe $75 and $70 of the was the remote locking kit.
The remote door locking kit came from JC Whitney. It's designed for cars that don't have power locks. Came with 2 actuators, 2 remotes, the "brain" and all the hardware you need. Cost was $69.95.
The steel rod is available at any hardware story. Just drill a small hole in the end to connect the actuator to the rod.
The threaded tube from the "Lamp" section of the hardware store. Just find the right ID to be able to slide the steel rod into it. I found the large nuts in the same parts bin, there's one on the inside of the door and one on the outside (visible in photo). Be sure to threadlock these.
1) remove the inside door panel and carefully pull back the plastic.
2) Drill a hole in the door, the proper size for the thread tube. Install the tube and nuts.
2) After cutting steel rod to the proper length, I just dabbed a little paint on the end of it, closed the door, and fed it into the steel tube (from inside the door) until it touched the door frame. The paint on the end showed me where to drill on the door frame.
3) Install actuator and connect it to the steel rod. The kit came with some rods about the diameter of a coat hanger to make the connection. The tough part was just lining everything up correctly. Mae sure you test it before you button it all up and make sure that the rod slides smoothly in both directions and that it doesn't catch on the door frame.
4) As for the "emergency release", I just used a piece of picture hanging wire and connected it to the steel rod where it meets the actuator. From there, I routed it through the door to a place that's hidden, but accessible if necessary. Now if the battery dies or the actuator fails, just pull the wire and the deadbolt opens. It'll be up to you to decide where to route it to.
Here is the deadbolt unlocked:
Here is the deadbolt locked:
Here is the hole in the door frame that the deadbolt slides into when the door is closed:
The one thing I won't reveal here is my "emergency" method for getting in. If the battery went dead or the actuator failed, I needed a way to still slide the bold out of the door frame. You guys can develop your own methods, just think "wire". Think "fuel door release" for inspiration.
It's simple, but it's a good, effective system to prevent break ins. Total costs, maybe $75 and $70 of the was the remote locking kit.
Last edited by Chance on Thu Aug 16, 2007 7:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
read #4
