The Yeti H2Beast Build

Post YOUR Hatchback here
 Reply
User avatar

By Uknterror
- Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:26 pm #321904
Mr Shickadance wrote:I went with the qsd because it keeps the stock mounting point for the transmission and axles and all that. Remember to get that washer from honda to align the timing belt on the crank gear! if you go qsd youll also need the balance shaft removal kit.

On a side note my clutch is gone so my motor has to come out again bleh


Which washer are you referring too? I have an idea but I wanna make sure. Are you talking about the thin washer on the crank?

I HIGHLY recommend competition clutch, I had a stage 2 full face on my previous setup and it was like butter and had the best feel.

By Mr Shickadance
- Mon Dec 10, 2012 4:57 am #321923 yeah thats it, but keep in mind the h22 only came with one stock, and used the balancer shaft pulley as the 2nd washer. I ran mine b series style and put that same washer on both sides of the gear. In other words from outside in, it goes: Crank bolt>>big ass qsd h2b kit washer>>Crank pulley>>washer>>Timing gear>>washer.

I know its Honda part number is: 13622-PT2-010

I wish I had the funds for a quality clutch but I'm prob just replacing the disc and cover with a cheap Exedy replacement

By Mr Shickadance
- Fri Dec 21, 2012 6:00 am #322584 Stayed on the cheap side and ordered one of these. I read mixed reviews on them but from what I saw, the trick is to be easier and more patient on the break in period. Has anyone had this clutch on this site? I want to hear about it from someone who has actually owned one, rather than just tell me it probably sucks b/c it's cheap. Wish I could have afforded a better one, but christmas isn't easy on the wallet and it's my DD so I need it asap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTR-4-PUCK-STAG ... 2f&vxp=mtr
User avatar

By TrailerTrash
- Fri Dec 21, 2012 7:13 pm #322620 i have an XTD 6 puck. its probably pretty close to the same thing(ebay brands :lol: ) and a few other people on here are running similair setups ive never heard a bad thing about them. but since u either have to get a new flywheel or have your stock one resurfaced u might aswell get a lightweight one while your at it :thumb:
User avatar

By Eg6H2D
- Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:56 pm #322657
TrailerTrash wrote:i have an XTD 6 puck. its probably pretty close to the same thing(ebay brands :lol: ) and a few other people on here are running similair setups ive never heard a bad thing about them. but since u either have to get a new flywheel or have your stock one resurfaced u might aswell get a lightweight one while your at it :thumb:




h2b bud. the flywheel he gets with the h2b kit is what he has to use....
User avatar

By Eg6H2D
- Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:57 pm #322658
TrailerTrash wrote:i have an XTD 6 puck. its probably pretty close to the same thing(ebay brands :lol: ) and a few other people on here are running similair setups ive never heard a bad thing about them. but since u either have to get a new flywheel or have your stock one resurfaced u might aswell get a lightweight one while your at it :thumb:




h2b bud. the flywheel he gets with the h2b kit is what he has to use....

By Mr Shickadance
- Sat Dec 22, 2012 6:28 pm #322661
bud. the flywheel he gets with the h2b kit is what he has to use....


Not quite. QSD's h2b kit uses b series flywheel, disc, and plate. It has a spacer the exact thickness of the adapter plate, then you bolt on whatever b series clutch you want. Right now I have a Fidanza 8lb flywheel from my 94 integra gsr. If you were to use the evolution kit, then your forced to use their clutch setup though.
User avatar

By Uknterror
- Sun Dec 23, 2012 4:39 am #322681 QSD kit > Evo. Why because with the evo kit you HAVE to use the flywheel and mounts that come with the kit. Numerous complaints about shifting issues and only pro over qsd is that it fits under hood w/o any hood risers/modded stock hood

By Mr Shickadance
- Sun Dec 23, 2012 8:13 am #322687
Uknterror wrote:QSD kit > Evo. Why because with the evo kit you HAVE to use the flywheel and mounts that come with the kit. Numerous complaints about shifting issues and only pro over qsd is that it fits under hood w/o any hood risers/modded stock hood


Exactly. I'd much rather keep the oem transmission location, mount locations, and axles. Pretty much cram in the motor and leave everything where it was.

In other news the clutch comes in on the 2nd or 3rd of Jan so the motors gotta come out soon. I want to regrease the steering rack, fix muffler rattle, fix gas gauge, fix idle, change the clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, regrease the input shaft on the tranny/throw out fork/slave cylinder pivot, resurface the fidanza flywheel, change the breaks, fix the ebrake, and finally wash it! ALL in 2 or 3 days. shit :)
^More of a list for me than you

By Mr Shickadance
- Sun Dec 23, 2012 8:14 am #322688 my friends cb7 accord is getting a fresh wire tuck, engine bay shaving, k24 from a tsx with a 6 speed.

Image

Image

By Mr Shickadance
- Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:06 am #323447 So the new clutch came in a few days ago
Image

Then when I was draining the transmission oil, i noticed there was a tonnn of aluminum in it
Image

So i took out the transmission, popped off the diff seal, and all these pebble sized aluminum chunks came out
Image

And the gsr transmission is a goner. luckily I found an ls transmission for sale on the cheap so I installed the clutch then the new transmission out of a 99 integra ls
Image

No pics of it finished yet but i cant wait to test drive it tomorrow. sooo sick of driving the jeep
User avatar

By Uknterror
- Tue Jan 08, 2013 2:58 am #323487 Holy crap! Never seen a trans pour out what looked like silver paint! Props!

By Mr Shickadance
- Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:14 pm #323616 so I was driving this morning about 250 miles into the break-in period for the clutch and I came half way up a steeeeeep hill and had to stop for a flag man at a road work stop, forcing me to do a hill start on a huge incline with a soccer mom mini van about an inch behind me. As i let out the clutch the whole car started to shudder and shake (almost like wheel hop) for about 40ft. I know the clutch was slipping bad but there was no other way out of it, or anyway i could have possibly been softer with it. Im praying i didnt ruin a brand new clutch but every time I'm letting out the last 90% of the clutch travel, the car does a tiny shudder/shake even on flat ground, but its fine when the car is up to speed.

So idk what to do. What do you guys think? Is it a goner? do I keep the break-in going and just roll with it for now?
User avatar

By TrailerTrash
- Thu Jan 10, 2013 4:28 am #323669 if im not mistaken thats called clutch "chatter". my XTD did it pretty dam bad during breakin
 Reply
Return to Your Ride - Hatchback