turbo advice

Turbo and Supercharger discussion
 Reply
User avatar

turbo advice

By ghskid06
- Fri Nov 19, 2010 2:48 am #223544 its almost time for me to start buying parts for my build in the spring and i dont know what im looking for. I have a z6 and im looking for the MOST RELIABLE 220-250 whp setup possible. To me this says my crank doesnt need replacing, and that ill need a t3/t4. Thats pretty much it.

-Are there more reliable bottom end bearings than stock?
-Rods and rings all i need or do i need pistons also?
-will i need injectors, new fuel rail or any other fuel system components?
-where can i get some good engine mounts?
-good place to buy a clutch?
-are factory sized EX 4 wheel disc brakes still sufficient in this range? Keeping in mind that ive been driving for almost 8 years. This is usually relatively fast.

Thats all i can think of atm but any info is good info. Keep im mind im not going for the cheapest lower 200 hp possible. Its gotta last me a few years. I dont believe in going cheap and replacing often. (except perhaps with the turbo because well i dont want to buy a ball bearing unless i can find a lower than usual priced one)
User avatar

Re: turbo advice

By teal_dx
- Fri Nov 19, 2010 4:11 am #223559
ghskid06 wrote:its almost time for me to start buying parts for my build in the spring and i dont know what im looking for. I have a z6 and im looking for the MOST RELIABLE 220-250 whp setup possible. To me this says my crank doesnt need replacing, and that ill need a t3/t4. Thats pretty much it.
OEM cranks are good for 400 HP, so you're good there. Rods should be upgraded for sure. Pistons too. You can reach that power # with a T3 or T3/T4. The key to a reliable setup is proper fuel management and tuning.

-Are there more reliable bottom end bearings than stock?
Stock are good and so are ACL. Just be sure that you have the correct size - that's what really matters. Stock uses a color/number coding system to determine bearing size. Some OEM bearings were on severe backorder or discontinued the last time I checked (2006) There's a DIY for reading this in the DIY list.
-Rods and rings all i need or do i need pistons also?
Forged pistons would be nice, but a set of vitaras will do if you want to save a little money
-will i need injectors, new fuel rail or any other fuel system components?
Injectors yes, and might as well upgrade the fuel pump as well. A fuel gauge to monitor pressure and adj. pressure regulator are also a good idea.
-where can i get some good engine mounts?
Stock mounts will be fine unless they are torn. Put the money toward ecu/tuning where it is more needed.
-good place to buy a clutch?
check the site sponsors out, or even ebay. You'll want something better than OEM.
-are factory sized EX 4 wheel disc brakes still sufficient in this range? Keeping in mind that ive been driving for almost 8 years. This is usually relatively fast.
Yeah they should be fine. You can always upgrade the pads to something more aggressive and replace the rotors as well. No need to upgrade to a big brake kit. Stainless braided lines to replace the oem rubber ones help alot too under hard braking.

Thats all i can think of atm but any info is good info. Keep im mind im not going for the cheapest lower 200 hp possible. Its gotta last me a few years. I dont believe in going cheap and replacing often. (except perhaps with the turbo because well i dont want to buy a ball bearing unless i can find a lower than usual priced one)
User avatar

By ghskid06
- Fri Nov 19, 2010 4:25 pm #223619 thank you for the responses.
According to the website you gave me, alot of people are in the hp range i want with stock internals on their z6 or y8. http://www.turbod16.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4140

Im guessing though that they are no longer reliable setups?

Possible to get a link for some forged pistons?
User avatar

By teal_dx
- Fri Nov 19, 2010 4:30 pm #223621 You can keep your stock internals and run 250 HP, but you better have an excellent tune because those rods aren't going to accept as many mishaps as a set of forged rods.
User avatar

By ghskid06
- Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:15 pm #223638 well i already plan to rebuild the motor for the turbo build, so i may as well put some nice rods and pistons in while its apart. I was just curious more than anything. If i put forged rods and pistons in then what is the next weak point in the engine if i decide to add more boost some day?
User avatar

By teal_dx
- Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:46 pm #223646 It depends alot on how you'll be driving the car too. for example, will it see high rpm (over 7k)? if so, definitely have the assembly balanced first. Honda cranks are pretty well balanced, but definitely get the rods & pistons balanced to extend the life of your setup.
As far as what will break next, it depends a lot on the details, mostly how well the tune is. A poor tune will make things go BOOOM real quick! When cranking up the boost though, the typical bottle neck is fuel delivery. You might want to go a little bigger than you need on the injectors and dial them back when tuning. that way you can always run them to a higher capacity later on. Also plan on a stage 2 or 3 clutch if you think you'll go over 250 down the road. Use ARP head studs and rod bolts of course. You should be in good shape if everything is assembled correctly :thumb:
 Reply
Return to Boost