D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
By AutoXCivic
#217486
chrono404 wrote:
AutoXCivic wrote:Also for the record the b20 is the same block and crank as the b18b1, just a bigger bore, so it's not a physically larger motor.


fixed that for you. A b20 is basically a Different Sleeved 84mm Bore B18b LS Engine(which is 81mm)

The JDM B20's apprently have better heads with better flowing valves. The Awesome thing about these engines is all the torque you have. From 2k you have over100lbs of torque and it peaks at 131lbs. With the Right transmissions you will easily slay any b16.

My 99Spec JDM B20 with I/H/E and a USDM b16 EM1 Transmission is faster then any b16 I've Ran,a low boost Turbo LSVtec Da(ls transmission),a GSR Swapped EG Si Hatch(with I/H/E, ITR Cams and basemap) and H22A CB7 Accord.

anytime you push the gas peddle down you are pushed back into your seat its awesome. The lowest my fuel economy has been is 21mpg(town) and highest is 29(town) Which considering I'm Running 87 Octane fuel isn't bad at all. If you roll a b16, b18c GSR or H22a then you HAVE to run 91 Octane fuel.


Right same crank as the b18 non-vtec. I've haven't been looking into b-series motors for a while, I keep forgetting that the GSR and LS motors have slightly different cranks.

As far as the JDM b20 head goes ... some of them have a better flowing head. The p8r head, which was found on the b20s that came in the Honda Orthia, have larger intake ports/valves than the p75 (LS) head that is commonly used on the b20s. Other than than that and the slightly larger combustion chamber (47cc vs 45cc) it is the same head as the p75 and as such can accept all aftermarket parts that the p75 head can (cams, springs, etc.) you will however need 1mm oversize intake valves (or intake valves from a B series VTEC engine, IIRC). Just remember if you pick up a JDM b20 do not expect this head as not all of them came with it. They do pop up on e-bay from time to time though.
User avatar
By ghskid06
#217488
chrono404 wrote:
AutoXCivic wrote:Also for the record the b20 is the same block and crank as the b18b1, just a bigger bore, so it's not a physically larger motor.


fixed that for you. A b20 is basically a Different Sleeved 84mm Bore B18b LS Engine(which is 81mm)

The JDM B20's apprently have better heads with better flowing valves. The Awesome thing about these engines is all the torque you have. From 2k you have over100lbs of torque and it peaks at 131lbs. With the Right transmissions you will easily slay any b16.

My 99Spec JDM B20 with I/H/E and a USDM b16 EM1 Transmission is faster then any b16 I've Ran,a low boost Turbo LSVtec Da(ls transmission),a GSR Swapped EG Si Hatch(with I/H/E, ITR Cams and basemap) and H22A CB7 Accord.

anytime you push the gas peddle down you are pushed back into your seat its awesome. The lowest my fuel economy has been is 21mpg(town) and highest is 29(town) Which considering I'm Running 87 Octane fuel isn't bad at all. If you roll a b16, b18c GSR or H22a then you HAVE to run 91 Octane fuel.


Wow, thanks for all the good info. seems like there is always a b20 motor on craigslist in my area. So we'll have to see for sure when the time comes, but i may just go ahead and go with a turbo. I dont want like 300 hp right away, just looking to be able to run 8-10 psi for a season. If i was to do this i know the head can remain stock, and id get the ecu chipped, but do i need rods in the z6 block? Any other input is good too, as ive not totally made my mind up.
User avatar
By OleFolk
#219209 1992 Eg Hatch - $700
D15b swap - $800
I/H/E - $400
Vtec - Priceless
:D
User avatar
By eg84dr
#219339 92 sedan ex 550
jdmd15b 600
rebuild 200
coilovers and springs 300
tranny 40
clutch and flywheel 250
1940$
and iprolly dont have more then 140 hp
b ut i love single cam so who gives a shit lol
User avatar
By OleFolk
#219363 This whole $300 coilover and springs sounds interesting
User avatar
By ghskid06
#219389 thank guys. i love single cam too. Soo reliable. I think i could drain my engine of 90% of its oil and drive it around for a month before it started knocking. For an engine that was build to be reliable and get good gas mileage they sure do well when adding hp. I want to keep it so bad, but if something else turns out to be cheaper than a rebiuld/turbo when spring rolls around its still going to be bye bye sohc.
User avatar
By eg84dr
#219412
OleFolk wrote:This whole $300 coilover and springs sounds interesting

i meant struts haha
basically i have a 300 dollar suspension
20 way adjustable shocks and ebay coilovers and stock top hats